Friday, November 30, 2012

Krabi, Ao Nang, and Railay - Beach Bummery

Hmmm...OK?
On the suggestion of some new friends in the Bangkok Ward, we set off from Bangkok to Krabi, pronounced like the picture suggests.  At least in our ever-snickering minds.  The fact that the town has such a "sculpture" tells you (almost) all you really need to understand about that town.  Here is another one:
Hardest picture to caption EVER!  Too much happening here.
Krabi Town itself is not much of a looker, but it is the gateway to one of the most beautiful parts of the world, the Andaman Sea, the west coast of Thailand.  This is the part I'd imagined when I dreamed up the whole scheme.  So after spending 1 1/2 days in Krabi (1 day too many), we were off to the sea on Thanksgiving.  Happy Turkey Day to us indeed!

No Turkey and stuffing, but we weren't too sad...
Melanie approves of the new town

Our quaint bungalow

Beasleys and Beach - I think we're going to like it here...

Best Sunset of the trip
The first day was spent at this fine beach, and the second was spent much the same, only at beaches around the cape from us.  This was Railay Beach, home to world-famous rock climbing, stunning scenery, and amazing beaches.
Day two... going alllllright.
The way to get around on the ocean is the craft, called a longtail boat seen above.  Like so many other inventions, this one is uniquely Thai.  It is a standard wide, shallow-bottomed boat, but it is the motor that is really clever.  It is an automobile engine that has been stripped down and instead of turning a crankshaft, turns the small propeller.  As far as I can tell, the throttle has been fixed to two speeds: on and idle.  The engine is mounted on a pivot and the driver can move it freely around the back of the boat, which means the craft can turn on a dime, which a fixed-motor boat can't do.  Fun to ride, and fun to examine as an invention.
Limestone cliffs/caves everywhere!

A little crowded, but still awesome!

A beach IN a cave?  That's new.


Beautiful beach, 60 baht pad Thai food made on a boat, and delicious pineapple shakes in hand.  Life is gooooooood


One of the little karsts that you could swim to to explore.  We would later kayak around it.

Can you spot the monkey? (Be kind...)
At one of end of the beach was something totally new to us: monkeys!  It was incredibly entertaining to watch the little suckers scamper around, play, wrestle, and beg for food.  
Don't mind me...really!
 We decided not to feed them; we saw several people get mugged by the crafty little suckers, including one lady who hilariously had her purse snatched.  Serves you right!

On Melanie's excellent suggestion, one day we rented a sea kayak and had a great, albeit sunburn-y time.
It was a fantastically fun, new way to explore the nooks and crannies of the coast.
A watery nook...or is it a cranny?


Seagoing Beasley's rowing amok!



Keep an eye on that opening!
It was great!  There were rocks to climb on and jump off, the cliffs and water were beautiful, and we even had a little adventure.  Being new to sea kayaking, we weren't used to paddling with the swells.  Several places had little sea caves that were really fun to explore, but we had a little trouble getting in and out.  The little arch shown above would open when the tide was down, and almost close all the way when the tide was up.  It was too irresistible to pass up, but we weren't as fast as we thought, and ended up squealing and basically laying down in the kayak until the water subsided.  Close call, a lot of fun and a little scary.

On our first "Last night" there we were enjoying some delicious nachos (!), tacos, and chimichangas at a Farang (foreigner in Thai) place called Crazy Gringos, when we heard a marching band.  It was the full moon, which meant (apparently) time for a festival!  It was a really neat surprise, we'd seen posters but didn't realize it was a big deal.  It was!
Am I eating a taco in Thailand?

Someone say tacos?
 The parade was to present to floats of the businesses around Ao Nang.  The point of the festival is to put your worries, fears, and sicknesses on your float (flower arrangement) and release onto the seas, never to return.  Good theory
Parade of the floats, with dressed-up presenter


Our floats, the presenter, and the real float.  Fun!

Can this float hold ALL our stress and worries?  Considering the rest of the post... yes.

Waiting for the tide to come in...and waiting...and waiting....

Fiery Pain.  Yay!
 We were sitting with our floats, waiting for a weird dance/ceremony/hippie DJ concert to end so we could release our floats onto the ocean, and sitting, with a bunch of other people on some stairs behind the stage.  All of the sudden, for some reason, without warning they set off the fountain fireworks behind the stage, causing a sudden screech and fleeing of the people sitting directly beneath them.  Yay Thai planning!

In addition to the floats, at some point sky lanterns got added to the mix, with hilarious results.  With no instructions, alcohol, floating fire, and light groundwinds mixing, what could go wrong? 
How many blonds does it take to operate a sky lantern?  More than three!  They only succeeded after 30 minutes with help from locals and some luck.
 We did eventually release our floats, and like so many others, our proceeded to flounder and then wash to shore.  This led to some jokes and a lot of wondering how this tradition survived more than one year, but overall it was a great time. 
So long, worries.  For now...

Fireworks from a barge, really coool!
 The combination of the festival, the sky lanterns, and eventually, fireworks made a special night that was magical.  It was a really neat thing to be a part of, and a great way to top off a week of fantastically relaxing beach bummery.  But there is plenty more of that to come, including some SCUBA in our future.  Stay with us!

Tuesday, November 27, 2012

Bangkok is madness

It took us a little while to get used to being in Bangkok - somehow, it is complete organized chaos! A lot of poverty and a lot of wealth all crammed in next to each other.


Every public place was shoulder to shoulder with other people
Heavy traffic and neon lights are the norm

 The air smells strongly of spicy Asian food (even in the airport when we landed) and it's hot as blazes. Most of the streets are crammed with vendor stalls that look like this:
And of course, the ever-present 7-11 up the street
Consequently, we came away from Bangkok with few pictures of the actual city because most of the time we were way too overwhelmed to pull out our camera.

We did get to see a few sights during our 5 days there. However, it was always exhausting to get out and see things because of the heat and the taxis. They have metered taxis, but when you are anywhere near the tourist part of town, they refuse to use the meters so they can get you to negotiate a higher price, usually double. So we could always get TO the tourist sights, but getting back home involved walking about an hour away to find a taxi that would use his meter. And Thai pronunciation is quite difficult, so it was a bit hard to communicate. Exhausting.

The fun part is that they also have tuk-tuks which are super fun to ride in, but also a little difficult to use because you have to negotiate a price with the driver first and you don't know how much a trip should cost, since you've never been there before and don't know how far away things are. So we always assumed his price would be double what it should cost and went from there.
This is like a Where's Waldo because you can see us in the backseat in his rearview mirrors

Riding along in our tuk-tuk
Bangkok does have a sky train/metro system, but it only gets you to newer parts of the city and the airport. They also have a completely mental bus "system" that makes no sense, and motorcycle taxis for one person - where you just hop on behind some dude on a motorcycle. So, needless to say, we found the task of getting around a little bit too much to undertake most days.

However, we will quickly admit that the people are very inventive and somehow make the craziness work. Especially in regards to the tuk-tuks and motorcycle taxis. It really is an ingenious solution to zip around a crowded city.  And the food stalls where you could order pad thai and they would whip it up for you fresh in about 30 seconds. It all somehow seems to work rather well.

The first thing we went to see was a temple called Wat Po, which has an enormous reclining golden Buddha.
The grounds of Wat Po palace


It's HUUUGE!

That's a big Buddha!

And some big tootsies!

The bottom of the feet were mother-of-pearl
We also wandered into a separate temple that had a huge Buddhist shrine and monks were coming in to say their prayers. We got to sit there and hear them do their chants, which was really cool; after 15 minutes they were still going strong.


Monks in the orange robes
The next day was Saturday, and most of the temples were closed. We needed a new cord for our laptop, so we set off on a mission to find one. Luckily, there are roughly 300 huge modern shopping malls in Bangkok, so we certainly didn't have any trouble finding electronic stores. After a while we found an ENTIRE mall that only sold electronics and they had the cord we needed. Before we made it there, however, we found Auntie Anne's pretzels and promptly inhaled ate 3 each
We heart soft pretzels

 We also found a Krispy Kreme, Mrs. Fields Cookies, and plenty of McDonalds. Just like any other western shopping mall.
A mall performance - the Backstreet Bangkok Boys
 They also had Christmas decorations up and had Christmas music playing. Pretty hilarious, since something like 96% of Thailand is Buddhist or Muslim... I guess it's for commercial purposes.
Merry Christmas from Thailand
So we ended up having a great time wandering the malls and being inside in the air-conditioning.

Monday we went to visit the Royal Palace (as a side note: Obama was in Bangkok over the same weekend and went to the Royal Palace and Wat Po on Sunday. We even saw his airplane at the airport when we flew out the next day)

Anyway, the Royal Palace was immense and we lost steam after a couple hours because of the heat. They had a strict dress code and we were both wearing shorts so I had to put on a skirt over my shorts and Brannan had to put on long pants over his shorts. I think they were made of pure wool because we were boiling. But still a really cool place to see.
Royal Palace


 Thailand used to be Siam, and many of the decorations looked very "Siamese". It reminded me of a lot of the scenery in the King and I.



Friend or foe?!



Who is really guarding this place? The elephants or the soldier?



Brannan's new pet elephant
The next day we hustled south to the slow-paced islands. We were ready to get out of the madness!  It was surprising that after having traveled for 3 months straight, we experienced so much culture shock and difficulty adjusting in Bangkok. Asia is definitely different than Europe!

P.s. despite what blogger says, this post was written by Melanie.